What is the best way to to get a nice tight seam on the welting when you have small curved sections on a cushion and you can't use a welt foot? The zipper foot doesn't get as close as I need it to.
I've tried a bunch of different things but nothing seems to get as close as a welt foot. I have a zipper foot that has been ground down to get a little closer but still not as good as a welt foot. Maybe some of these other folks have ideas.
Give us more info on what you are trying to sew and why a welt foot will not work.
When the welt is made - or installed to the first layer (with curve), make sure it is larger than the welt
foot sewing the final seam.
Expecting the same welt foot for both will be difficult because as layers become additive, the welt size
get larger.
In addition to making or sewing the welt to the first layer, make the stitch length a little larger than doing
the final seam.
What have I said? -- make the welt cord and installation in first pass ---loose with welt foot and stitch length larger than the one used for final seam.
The other option is doing it all in one pass with one welt foot (stitch length? - what ever normal is).
This option there will only be one seam.
Quote from: kodydog on March 27, 2018, 06:01:14 am
Give us more info on what you are trying to sew and why a welt foot will not work.
Ditto. I'm having trouble visualizing why a welt foot won't work.
Evan I'm going to chime in with, it would be a bit more interesting with knowing your present project.
With that on the side I cannot see a better alternative than using a cording foot.
I can add a few tips though they can! get expensive and time consuming to make, besides with the
above comments there is already 90 years experience.
I recall, and it was on this site someone mentioned customizing the bottom of a cording foot ( they also make these )
but sometimes not as short for a particular project. Anyway if looking at the bottom of the cord/piping foot,
there can be some grinding so to help with a turn motion during sewing. The next and specfic part that
pushes these small curve projects is the use of a cylinder bed style sew machine. These can have typically 3
different cylinder sizes dependent on circle diameter one is needing in the projects.
Here is an example, in the link. These could possibly help in certain situations, purchased for your particular
machine. Just a thought. Good luck
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Welting-Piping-Foot-Set-With-Back-Cut-Out-For-Juki-DNU-1541-LU-563-LU-1508-/401223880854
Good day
Floyd
Cab you take a zipper foot and fill the metal so the needle is closer to your target /
SA
https://postimg.org/gallery/3e80lksee/
On each front corner, there is supposed to be an inverted curve about 3-1/2" long it's kind of hard to see in the photo (if it uploads) and with the welt foot can't make such a tight turn
When you sew this area "inverted curve" you can snip the fabric from the edge to just close to the seam and the welt will open up to be a straight run. No need to snip the welt fabric just the top fabric. Then you can use the welt foot as usual and it will get in tight.
[IMG_20180302_155338_hdr_2.jpg](https://postimg.org/image/6qh8urgr9/)
I see no inverted curves here except maybe on the back at the bottom. And that is not a tight curve.
Quote from: MinUph on March 27, 2018, 05:34:06 pm
I see no inverted curves here except maybe on the back at the bottom. And that is not a tight curve.
Agree. Nothing in the pic that can't be done with a regular set of welt feet. What kind of cording are you using?
About 6 years ago Rose started to teach me to sew cushions. I was already pretty good at sewing straight flat stuff but cushions were a challenge. I remember two of the hardest parts were getting that welt foot up close to the cording on curves and 90 degree turns. No mater how hard I tried it often took two or three passes to get it right. It took a lot of practice to learn how to do it in one pass. One trick, as mentioned above, is when you sew the cording to the panel leave it just slightly loose. When you sew the boxing force the welt foot up tight. That's the part that takes a lot of practice. Too tight and you are running on top of the cord. Too loose and the cord is not tight and threads show. I spent a lot of time ripping out seams.
Make sure your cording fabric is all cut exactly the same width. Another suggestion is cut your cord on the bias. Especially on a curved cushion like you are doing. And like Sofa mentioned, the right type welt makes a big difference. A nice stiff braided tissue welt works best for me.