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I've been using the tsm manual from the marine fabricators association for bids. My current clients are asking for dinghy chaps. Anybody have a standard time they user for these. The dinghy is a
10' rib.

I've been shopping for my next machine. I've been doing some sail work and have been wanting zig zag for working on sail panels. Straight stitch is fine for the majority of sail work but most customers expect to see zig zag in the field. I'm seeing one offering with 3 or 4 different names, Eagle, Misew,Sewline and cowboy. Anybody know anything about these machines or have any reviews for me?





http://m.ebay.com/itm/SEW-LINE-SL-1146-ALL-NEW-UNIT-WALKING-FOOT-ZIG-ZAG-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-/322019891138?nav=SEARCH

Anyone got experience with this stuff. From what little I read its polypropylene with carbon black to stop sun penetration. I saw this on ebay and had to take a look at what it was.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221150606283?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 Im working on a fairly large bimini at the moment. 8'x10'. The prior bimini had sagged and stretched very badly. I got to thinking, "why do they stretch so excessively"?  Could it be from the weight of the center bows with their never ending pull with no stop?  Ive done my last few with adjustable straps holding the center bows in place. Im wondering side by side the difference would be in the long term in a  Straps -vs- Pockets comparison. Ive also noticed the thing usually stopping the biminis from staying tight throughout its life is the reinforcing strip along the lower edges. They stay tight and the rest of the bimini sags between the bows, It would seem that the adjustable center straps could extend the useful life by raising the bows to compensate as it stretches. Another benefit is less exposed structural stitching and needle holes overhead to leak. At this point Im thinking sewing the center pockets in a bad practice compared to support straps. Thoughts?

Heres what Ive been working on.

http://taxih2o.com/

I will post pics of the interior next week when its all installed. there was some paint and fiberglass to be done so the interior was still sitting in a pile. It was kind of a fun project as it was all from scratch converting an old fishing boat into the taxi. The owner
Doni is a standup guy and I wish him the best of luck with his new business expansion. He also does a towing/rescue/recovery business.

So when I bought my sewing machine from Raphaels sewing machines in canada and it came with a half dozen needle packs. All along Ive been using 134/135r needles because thats what came with it. I ordered last time off the chart and found the machine is listed as 135x5 needle system which is quite a bit shorter in comparison and the hook misses the scarf completely. Is it possible that whoever timed the machine at Raphaels  just grabbed the wrong needles and timed it to work with them? Are there parts that could have been changed to alter the needle size? My first inclination is to time the machine using the correct needles just wondering how I got tuned for the different needle size.

Im not familiar with these. Where do you use one? Is  this one of those tools I should have and dont know it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Martin-Motocut-FABRIC-CUTTER-FOAM-PATTERN-MAKER-MODEL-SCROLL-SAW-WORKING-/321128046885?pt=BI_Textile_Equipment&hash=item4ac4b92125

Ok starting a big job, complete sewout of a 52' sportfisherman. The first step is to tear out the work started by the owner. He was glueing up thin foam and vinyl. Not going there again. His work has the typical hand prints and dents. My experience is slim in this area except for the nightmare last summer of a glue up that took too long and caused too many gray hairs. I've been given freehand on what to use. Right now the boat has no finishes. Like a house before drywall. In the salon there's bare ply. Below there are framing members. What system would you recommend for ease of installation and finished look? There's a LOT of work in this boat. Don't want to get hung up on the 1st step which is headliner. Thanks in advance.

Found a complete punch kit in a thrift shop. Whitney Roper Junior Punch #5 kit Rockford Ill. $10. Looks like good quality industrial stuff. Has two piece die set for holes from 3/32 to 9/32. Been looking for a better punch. I guess its a sheetmetal punch but punches paper clean as a whistle.

http://yachtsurvey.com/hardware_attachments.htm

Gotta job coming up on a 30' hunter power boat. It involves tearing out the owners failed attempt at covering the hull/headliner carpet with vinyl. After I remove carpet and vinyl I will be looking at rough fiberglass roving pattern.I've turned down work like this before but this one doesn't have any recessed compound curves so I thought I'd give it a go. Question 1. What kind of prepwork needs to be done tothe rough glass. Question 2. What kind of liner will get the best results and which won't be suitable? Question 3). What adhesive is proper and application methods? Question 4). The vberth overhead pieces are rather large and I'm picturing having a time installing them. and how th treat joint in liner. Any other tips and tricks would be highly appreciated. Thanks much

So Im getting ready for the next dodger and was looking at the job and came up with this idea and thought it would be worth kicking around. This sailboat like many others didnt make provisions  for a dodger like a combing, doghouse for sliding hatch. My idea is to build a 3rd bow tg run low over the cabintop just above the sliding hatch, handholds, sail lines etc. then cut this stuff into a tail that would be coming off the bow pocket for the bottom  bow. The area where the clear vinyl  goes is now simply a bow to bow pattern with even support all the way around. Opening windows would all be smiley zips. Could see some fine results not worrying about uneven tension from intermittent attachment along the bottom edge. snap attachment along bottom would be inconsequential due to it only supporting a couple of inches. Pocket for extra bow would have to be small to fit all in below clear.

Ok to start with Im working on a sportfishing boat called "Never Satisified". A high end toy that the owners take much pride in. Seats in cockpit are wrap around with bolsters. I get the first one done and theres like a crease running around the bolster. After cutting another plate I see another "crease"[ across the plate. I trashed the first attempt. Am I looking at seconds here, is this just crappy vinyl? I somehow think I shouldnt have to pick through a roll like it was a hide or something to get a quality end product. Anyone out there have experience with Premier vinyl?

Doing a 60 guage strataglass job and having more staples bend than penetrating. What model/make stapler do you use? Looking at Bostitch STCR2619. Wondering if something like the B8HDP Heavy-Duty Plier Stapler would have too thick a wire and would leave noticeable puncture marks. TIA

Im looking at my brothers 82 four winns power boat. The seats are tri color with two rows of welt separating the colors. Each color has its own color welt. How is this done. everything I found for double welt dealt with a different scenario. Upon opening a seat up I see that there are 6 layers 2 for each welt and one of each color. To make it even better theres a piece of scrim foam sewn down the center piece of fabric that is in the same seam. Thanks,
Steve

Saw this recently and had to chuckle