I am in the process of designing a new top for a singer 111w table. I am putting a new motor on it, the kind that bolts behind the machine with three bolts. Any suggestions as to materials, size etc would be appreciated. My table top is so old that is is 16*42"... I am thinking 20x48 for a new one, using my old metal legs. I am thinking ab out using two thicknesses of 1/2" plywood and cutting the machine footprint in the top sheet and cutting an inner beveled lip on the second lower sheet to hold up the machine. Maybe cover the top with marine vinyl so its easy to keep clean and not much snagging
Zane
If you want to reinvent the wheel then go for it.
Me? I'd simply order a new one that's clean, finished, and ready to go. They're not steep money and they arrive with the precut hole for the your machine head.
If you're going to cover the top with marine vinyl anyway, I would just add on to the one you have now. The vinyl will cover the cracks. If you're any good at applying Formica, that would be an option as well.
Or keep checking Craigslist for an old sewing machine complete with stand in the $100 range. You might have to alter/remove the drip pan.
I'm with Bobbin. Life is too short to go building sewing machine tables. ;D
the problem is that my table top is only 16" deep and 1: thick, soft wood, probably early 20's. The motor and clutch setup is one of the first ever made with a regular motor that drives a series of pulleys. I got a new motor ordered, and I got a quote for a formica table delivered for $75 that is cutout for my machine, drilled for my motor etc. I think that is what I will do.
Zane
My Singer 31-15 is in a bench with "H" legs (not adjustable) and it has a softwood bench, too, that's a little bit smaller than the tops now available (it's narrower, like your's). It's no longer my main machine and I have it set up as a dedicated binder, so I've never bothered to replace the bench.
If your machine has "H" legs you should consider switching to "K" legs. They're adjustable and setting the height of your bench to a height that's comfortable for you and/or in alignment with the rest of the work benches in your shop can really reduce fatigue over the course of a long day. Get an adjustable chair, too. (None of my chairs are padded, they're stock, "sewing chairs" c. 1950-something, but they work great!)
I say go for it...
I made mine 5ft x 6ft with a mobile 3ft extension table. The sewing machine is independent of the tabletop, so you can use readily available sheet goods, instead of the 1 1/2in plywood that standard sewing tables are made of.
We used 3/4in melamine and steel. The melamine is a smooth surface that cleans up great. Also had some fun by adding a custom paint job! You can check out some pictures here:
http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q537/kpohorylo/ (http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q537/kpohorylo/)
It took 2 days to make, but well worth it! Not much out there when it comes to sewing tables..
$75 is a great deal for what you describe.
Quote from: zanepurcell on July 12, 2012, 05:05:21 pm
the problem is that my table top is only 16" deep and 1: thick, soft wood, probably early 20's. The motor and clutch setup is one of the first ever made with a regular motor that drives a series of pulleys. I got a new motor ordered, and I got a quote for a formica table delivered for $75 that is cutout for my machine, drilled for my motor etc. I think that is what I will do.
Zane
thanks for the pictures... I see on thehome depot website that they sell melamine boards inexpensively. I think I can make something I like for about $20. or maybe a little more... Thanks for the idea.
Zane
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1162.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq537%2Fkpohorylo%2Fth_sewingtable004.jpg&hash=1cd574111bb4be161b706326f969bc2d) (http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q537/kpohorylo/?action=view¤t=sewingtable004.jpg)
Sewing table with mobile extension table
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1162.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq537%2Fkpohorylo%2Fth_sewingtable003.jpg&hash=3014029d6086b39f9d03ca9a3c6570f6) (http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q537/kpohorylo/?action=view¤t=sewingtable003.jpg)
Underneath Table
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1162.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq537%2Fkpohorylo%2Fth_sewingtable005.jpg&hash=ff1972d8a8d5f13ece2e0b5818e39835) (http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q537/kpohorylo/?action=view¤t=sewingtable005.jpg)
Another view
Just read about how to post the pics to the site, so thought this might be easier.
I have to agree, $75 is a good deal. This project requires some welding skills also.
I just got back from HD. I can get a 24x48 melamine board that will work for $11. I think I will put plywood underneath it for strength and drill my holes and stuff.
When I made my new top, I used a short ready-made kitchen countertop from one either Home Depot or Lowes. I like the rounded front edge, and it was about 22" deep after I I removed the backsplash. I carerfully removed the plastic laminate from the back splash and used it to cover the exposed ends and back of the new machine top. One of the key things I did was add a piece of angle steel to the rear of the top to prevent sagging of the top over time.
Bob,
I thought of doing that as well. My local HD is small and I will just need to stop into a larger buidling supply store to see what they have. I know you can sometimes find an island counter top that has around edge on the front and back. The cutting off of the back part is a thought. How did you bevel to accept the machine?
The countertop is 3/4" thick, so I used a router with a small straight bit to make the cutout. I used doublestick tape to fix temporary guide strips to the countertop. These strips were 1/4" thick wood and they were used to keep the router in a straight line. The guide strips were removed once the cutout was made. I also used them to make the hole where the drive belt goes thru the table plus the removable cutout so you can see the hook assembly when you access the bobbin. To create appropriate support for the machine, I epoxied hardwood pieces in the corners of the cutout for the machine.
Here's a pic :
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1143.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn630%2Fthombiz%2FBobT366-22.jpg&hash=21f43254fec15d570eebeb30ef2f18ec)
Large scale here: http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/thombiz/BobT366-22.jpg
Nice setup Bob. Great idea on the bobbin cutout.
So I got materials tonight and started in on it all. I didnt like the way the melamine stuff worked so I ended up doing it fron thick plywood that I already had. I used circular saw. jigsaw, dremel, router and some other stuff... It will be like I want it and I will save a little bit of money. The suggestion from bob about boards as guides to cut the insert were excellent. I even used the idea as a strait edge to rip the sides with a circular saw to eliminate a need for the table saw. I think I will cover the whole think with marine vinyl and reinforce it with some angle iron and post pictures when I am done. Bob, what kind of a machine do you have? it looks like one of the semi portable models that sailright calls an evenfeed, some call a baracuda etc
It's a Chinese clone of an Adler 366. It's a very very heavy machine, maybe 180 lbs. and it can stitch thru 3/4" of materials. On some windsurfing stuff I use size 207 and 277 thread and it handles that with ease. It does have cams so it can do zigzag and 3 step zigzag for large boat sails.
ok, I know Adler Durkopf is a great machine... I have seen a company called sewline selling a similar machine for around $300. I have considered getting a portable machine, mainly for my personal entertainment
Even Chinese copy of Durkopp Adler 366 short arm would be more than $300USD. Most who do canvas and uphostery will never see the need for a heavy zig zag like this one here.
Most common applications are for boat sail manufactuer and repair, heavy corners and patches and heavy sail work. You can see more information about it here;
http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/DurkoppAdler366.pdf (http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/DurkoppAdler366.pdf)
When I was looking for a 366, I found a used one in Germany for $13,000. This one came from Sunsew and I paid about $5400 for it with import fees and all.
Here it is with my Bernina 217N-12 next to it:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1143.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn630%2Fthombiz%2Fscc006.jpg&hash=619804e2863106f970bf4fd760764d35)
Large Scale: http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/thombiz/scc006.jpg
ok, I thought I was looking at something like a sailright even feed. Yours is much larger... It just looked small and boxy by itself for some reason in the picture... What is your bernia model?
in other news, I am making my table top with two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood, liquid nails in between and carriage bolts to hold it together as well as the motor. I am shimming with hose washers to keep vibration down between hardware bolts and washers and nuts. I put adjustable feet on it to control height and leveling it and to get it to a similar height as maybe an additional table or two for large work.
Zane
Quote from: Bob T on July 18, 2012, 10:58:36 am
When I was looking for a 366, I found a used one in Germany for $13,000. This one came from Sunsew and I paid about $5400 for it with import fees and all.
Here it is with my Bernina next to it:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1143.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn630%2Fthombiz%2Fscc006.jpg&hash=619804e2863106f970bf4fd760764d35)
Large Scale: http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/thombiz/scc006.jpg
Holy Cow, Bob! That's impressive! I've been asked numerous times to do sail repairs and construction. I've always turned it down for lack of skill and equipment and sent them to a sail loft. Canvas and sails are two different beasts and I know my limits.
June