Hi again gang!
I'm in a bit of a pickle-- The top of my bench is in need of replacement. It's 13' x 24' currently. 3/4" A/C Plywood with 1/2" Good One Side Plywood on top of that. Four coats of Polyurethane applied, after filling all screw holes with filler.
Problem is that it is now separating between the layers of plywood.
I've seen online that there is a product called "MDF" Board, and is simply a dust/glue type board. Also, there is a product that simply wraps the same board with a white formica type product that is applied to it, making it quite strong, but I can't remember what the name of this type of board is.
This same board, (whatever it's called), is available mainly in a 49" x 87".
Can anyone tell me if this might be something you would recommend? What do you feel would make the best set=up. I have 2 x 8 joist/legs on it. I would simply let the weight hold it in place.
Thanks for your advice!
Chris
Is the 1/2" separating from the 3/4" or are the ply's separating and if so are the separations in the 1/2 or the 3/4? If the ply's are separating that material should come off but if the 1/2" is loosening up on the 3/4" then I'd just re screw it and add a new surface of 1/4" tempered Masonite on top.
The glued board 3/4"with the white laminate Finnish bolth side I built a table I ends upmmoving it into my mobile trailor it's good but not as strong I'd I'd say as my main table that is done with 1/2" plywood with white laminate on top.
You can run through my photos and see how I built my table.
For the top I used 3/4 " plywood which is a glue / wood pressed board. It has white formica on
both sides. I forgot the name of the board but they sell it at Lowes or Home Depot.
It is very strong. I also routed grooves into the table and put V groove aluminum I got at Lowes into these grooves. I caulked them in place. Man those cutting grooves are awesome. You get perfect cuts every time. I will never have another cutting table without those grooves. They work perfectly.
I framed the table to have two shelves on one side and a large open area on the other for storage. On the end is a flip up table extension that can be folded down.
Here is the link to my photo album: http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x200/throgmartin/Up%20Shop/ (http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x200/throgmartin/Up%20Shop/)
Good Luck,
Chris
Thanks Guys!!
Big John,
It's actually the 1/2" that is separating. The tempered masonite: Can that be painted? Is it fairly inexpensive? If I'm thinking of the same product you are referring to, it is the same that a "Pegboard" is made from that I hang my spools from.
Thanks,
Chris
Why not just screw the layers tight and glue some new Formica (counler top stuff) on top for s new smoothe Finnish ? It would only be a fraction higher I. Side your machine could adjust that bit
I would just put a clear varnish on it. The other option is to remove the 1/2" and put a new layer of MDF (sign board) on top, much like the board (MDO) you mentioned but the center is exterior plywood with NO VOIDS and a smooth coating on both sides. Check with your lumber yard I think I have the initials correct but the experts will tell you for sure. By the way sign board isn't cheap, at least $35.00 a sheet
Just as a FYI.
MDF is medium density fiberboard. Sign board is not MDF it is plywood with a plasticized coating on one or both sides for painting on at least any that I have seen or worked with. While Masonite is high density fiber board. All plywood is made with exterior glues now a days. Neither MDF or Masonite will stand up to moisture.
A good cabinet grade plywood will hold up the best. I have built cutting tables out of it witpolyurethanene paint on top (several coats after priming) and it lasts a good long time. I also edge my tables with a 3/4" piece of hardwood. make the corners perfect 90 degrees and you have a built in square.
I wasn't sure of the proper name for the product, but it is High quality plywood ( no voids ) with a resin based coating on both sides to allow for a quality finish. Check with your lumber yard, I saw it at my local Menard's Home Center.
My benches are all melamine coated MDF. It's smooth, pretty easy to cut (put tape over the lines and cut through the tape to minimize chipping), and very durable. I purchased melamine edgeing and used an old household iron to apply it (it comes with heat activated glue on the back side). I have made removable covers that snap over the melamine. For extra "padding" I use 1/2" homasote that I can remove when I don't want a padded surface.
Works slick and probably the best idea I've implemented since adding a 13th. mortgage payment to the yearly round of bills!
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Well, here's the ltest thoughts I'm pondering: I'm told that the malamine coated mdf may simply be too bright with the fact that the table is so big. Also been thinking it might be smarter to go with good one side plywood & screw in from the bottom using brackets etc.
Hmmmmm. Not. Sure what to do.
I paint mine as bright a white as I can. Works for me. Cleans up nicely.
I have had a malamine bench top for 14 years . I like it because it doesn't absorb glues and stains . a little laquer thinner and steel wool cleans it white which helps finding little bits and pieces. my board was coated on both sides so if i do something too narly to the finish i can always flip it.
I have excellent flourescent lighting in my workroom (27 of those bad boys!) and I don't find there is too much glare off the melamine, either. In fact, it's sun streaming through the windows in the midst of winter that creates the most glare, so I have some drapery panels with blackout lining that I can pull across the window to block the sunshine.
I like the ease with which they can be cleaned up, too.
I can say I made sure the lighting was covered with great thought. In total I have 4 rows of high output florecents 8' long and switched individually with each on a 3way switch.
My electric co. Loves when I leave them on overnight!
My son feels we'll have to wear a very high SPF sunblock!!
I received a price today that is what I'd consider unbeatable. Cabinet maker would sell me the malonine plus cut biscuit grooves in it fo proper alignment.
Hope to decide soon.
For those of you that have this product, did you router the edge or just leave the factory edge on it?
We call my shop "the NASA clean room", Stitchit. When it's dark outside the place glows and looks like the space ship in "Close Encounters". :) It's hard to miss it when I forget to turn off the lights, lol. I am thrilled with the energy efficiency of my shop's lighting. I don't usually need to use all 3 banks at once and the lighting is excellent with no shadows or "dark spots". Interestingly, the electrician told me I "didn't need all those lights", but the total is what my research showed was considered correct for the application.
Using biscuits to join widths is an excellent idea! We simply cut basic sheets to side and applied them to the bases, so my tables are 48" x 96" and on casters. I have 5 of them, and 2 or those have a drop down leaf that is 24" x 96" and supported by fold down legs. They don't line up perfectly with each other however, but for my purposes that isn't critical, mobility is. The biggest discrepancy is a scant 1/4" and I can deal with that.
You will never regret spending time and money on good tabling. Smart use of money!
I our in a work shop
at my home I havnt finninshed it all yet but I sulating rhe building I used foam board with a foil Finnish the ligh reflexs great.
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I'm late to this party, but you have at least three options for edge-banding:
1. Iron on edge banding, available in white melamine.
2. Plastic T-molding, pressed into a slot cut with a router.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1181
3. Solid wood edging, glued onto the edge and eased