Wife got started learning to do upholstery work this year. Bought her a new Juki 1541S in January. She has sewn all her life, but only on a home use machine making clothes, pillows etc. the Juki was a mighty big step up. Since January, she has made a lot of progress. Learning the ins and outs of the Juki was the biggest challenge. Her hobby is turning into a regular business that is now taking up a good portion of the house. We have a 14' x 28' portable building that I will be turning into an upholstery shop for her. She will need work tables. Can anyone give me some input on how big the tables should be, what kind of material should the tops be made of, how tall, etc. I have read some folks integrate the sewing machine table into the work table. What are the pros and cons of doing this. Eventually she will be reupholstering cushions and seats for the vintage travel trailers I restore and may expand to making awnings for them as well. Thanks for your advice.
For your fabric cut out tables I would suggest temporary set ups until you can decide what works best in your space. Give it 6 months and then build permanent rigid tables out of 2 x 4's
SA
I built mine 56" wide. There have been many times I wish I'd built it 60". If you use plywood for the top You'll want to either paint it or cover it so the fabric doesn't catch on the rough surface. Also good idea to have a separate work area for your spray glue work. It'll make a mess of a good cutting table.
For a temporary setup as suggested by SteveA, you might want to try tables with folding legs. I have four 24" x 48" folding-leg tables from Costco that are just about the right height, and that I can array behind and/or in front of the sewing machine for large projects, and anywhere as work tables such as for cutting. When not in use, the tables are folded and stored between a wall and the sewing machine stand. I don't recall the price, but were quite inexpensive.
The table tops are slippery, and large fabric projects slide easily. For vinyl material, I put single sheets of newsprint under the material so the vinyl slides easily. I sew right through the newsprint and later tear it off along the perforations.
Here's a panoramic view of my immediate work area. It's 26' X 28'. The cutting table is 5' X 12'.
The table is particle board covered with peel-n-stick floor tiles. It's over 15 years old. And Kody is right about spray glues and such being messy.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi775.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy33%2Fsofadoc%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2Fth_image.jpeg&hash=d7ac27ad339d6cf2bd3146321b2f71c6) (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/sofadoc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpeg.html)
That's a great space doc - stickandtin will be well learned by that submission. Do you also have material storage space behind the lens ?
SA
Quote from: SteveA on September 29, 2015, 11:44:13 am
Do you also have material storage space behind the lens ?
Yes, behind the lens is my store front sample room (26' X 18'). On the other side of the double doors in the pic is storage (26' X 60').
One option is a system called "shop boxes." I built a set of these from an article in Fine Woodworking years ago (I'm primarily a woodworker/finisher). The idea is to build a frame box that's 24 x 30 x 36 Then you can flip it one of three ways depending upon your current work. If you build a pair of them, you can lay on a piece of sheet goods to make a large work surface, or half a sheet of plywood for a smaller (e.g., chair sized) work surface. I made mine from a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood that I ripped into roughly 1x4 sizes. If you have a pocket hole jig, you can just screw the corners together and make flush joints. Otherwise you can overlap them and face screw them together. Don't forget to allow for the thickness of the facing pieces on your dimensions (e.g., if you are using 1x4, you will have to reduce some dimensions by 1.5" to get your 24x30x36)
Here is an article with pictures to save me 1000 more words. Similar to what I built, maybe more flexible if you add the I-beams. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/the_shop_box_system
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The other thing I can recommend is wall storage. A friend of mine once said, "Can you imagine a kitchen without cabinets and everything just sat of the floor?" Take a look at SofaDocs for an efficient organization. Also think of your taski and work stations for workflow. Use the concept of "Kitchen Triangle" or organize groups of 3 items that you freqenty use together or in succession.
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Tangent:
What is the sq.ft of your shops, everyone? I'm looking for a new house and hope to find 800-1000 sq ft woodshop thinking that's a good compromise between being too cramped and spending too much time walking between workstations. There's Parkinson's law (and corollaries) that say, "Junk expends to fill empty space," "Expenses rise to meet or exceed income," "work expands so as to fill the time available for its completion"" "If you wait until the last minute, it only takes a minute to do," etc.
Does this derive from the fact that most upholstery fabric is 54"+selvage???
Quote from: kodydog on September 29, 2015, 10:21:17 am
I built mine 56" wide. There have been many times I wish I'd built it 60". If you use plywood for the top You'll want to either paint it or cover it so the fabric doesn't catch on the rough surface. Also good idea to have a separate work area for your spray glue work. It'll make a mess of a good cutting table.
Even though my table is 60" wide, I still have the occasional roll of fabric that hangs over the side (usually because it wasn't rolled straight to begin with).
Use to be most fabrics were 54" wide. But lately 58" is not unusual.
My shop is 24' by 30' with a wall down the middle to separate the cutting and sewing side from the upholstery side. It also includes a 1/2 bath and a small office. I can't imagine working in a area smaller than this. It leaves little room for storage but for that I have a 8'X10' shed for foam and rolls of Dacron. And a 10'X16' shed to store furniture.
I do very little fine woodworking so most of my power tools are table top type. I don't know how you are set up but I don't think this shop would be big enough if you have a full blown wood working shop.
I would give my first born to have Sofas space.
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1179.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx386%2FEdwinNorthuis%2FShop%2520and%2520sheds%2Fth_Shop1.jpg&hash=a19fac4b75ce389fa06384630f229af1) (http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/EdwinNorthuis/media/Shop%20and%20sheds/Shop1.jpg.html)
Cutting and sewing room
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Upholstery room
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I've noticed that many ups have a cutting table up against the wall. I find that being able to walk all around mine is very helpful and I feel that it saves me time.
My cutting table is 60" wide and 96" long. Earlier this year I put a drawer under my cutting table. I am amazed at how often I use stuff in the drawer that I used to have to go get off a shelf, and then put back when I was finished using it. Electric fabric cutter, foam saw, ear muffs, chalk, knife sharpener, Sharpies, hand tools, etc
Quote from: gene on September 29, 2015, 03:30:38 pm
I've noticed that many ups have a cutting table up against the wall. I find that being able to walk all around mine is very helpful and I feel that it saves me time.
Didn't you say in previous conversation that you prefer a high table? Like 47" or something like that?
I prefer my sewing machine built in to the cutting table. So at 31" high, I have no trouble reaching across. Leaning over a low table doesn't bother my back at all. So having access on both sides of the table isn't as much of a priority for me. I'd rather have that space for work area.
Still. if I could re-configure.........I probably would move my table out from the wall. And I think I will add a "goody" drawer.
I like the drawer idea also. I'll be adding one as time permits. I don't know why I never thought of that :) Thanks Gene
Tangent !
I went from 1200 rented commercial space to 500 home basement workshop. When I lost my lease I decided to scale the business down and maybe keep more of every dollar. It's been 15 years in 500 feet and no regrets. When I have a spray job I use my friends shop - otherwise I try to just do the smaller jobs and definitely the ones with less headaches. Keith I'm not hopeful you'll get this topic going here,
SA
Hey stickandtin
Congratulations to you all with your new adventure, enjoy it in each plan workup.
Just a tip adding on what gene mentioned with a drawer, great idea in several areas. One reason I'm finding on my sew tables the attached small drawer underneath on left is useless if you wheel your machine table into a slot as its not accessible.
I had seen a cool setup in a shop they had a hanging florescent light above their table, inset on the top was stored straight edges and items handy.
For the height I would find the height most comfortable when standing, use the examples ya have to do task now as I did like stove, dryer, canning areas, toolbox, weld table and whatever.
Canvas is 60-72" so I used that myself, for the top probably in my future it would be AC 3/4" thin primed 2 and some decent topcoat that's not to chippy.
Some on here used the board with melamine layer " and it is slick" you might have in either case a dowel jig that's what I used for the plywood sheets not perfect but not sure of any better yet.
You and many others here are running Juki's, with any type I actually find it a nice idea though I didn't do it,( I'm to new) making machine set into a super "super" hd table base area cutout. Them Juki's weigh a ton, btdt
Have a great day there
Sorry to be so short but I'm running late.
I run an upholstery shop that is satellite to an RV parts and service business. When required I help over in the "big shop" so know exactly what your dealing with. Here is my 2 cents:
> Your user name is hilarious ! Not much to them once you open them up,eh.
>Table has to be 60" + wide if she is doing awnings. If space is an issue go with a drop leave table that can be folded down when doing smaller jobs and fold up when required.
>My tables have always been plywood tops covered in scrap vinyl or herculite. That way you can easily recover them when the get scuzzy.
>Sewing machine needs to be part of the table and at the same height if you are working on large projects like awnings and tarps. If you want a higher table ( back issues) put the sewing machine on a platform to get it up to the table height.
> Eight foot tables suck for cutting long runs of fabric. I wish mine were 112 or 120" so I could mark off my runs 100" at time and still have room for the roll. Marking 90" at time courts math errors and mistakes.
> You want to be able to walk around three sides of the table with the "far end" up against a wall so you can hang the rolls of material on a rack and just roll them off as required.
I've got to run. More input and pics of the shop I work in to follow soon.
My comments may not be helpful as we are more of a production shop setting versus an upholstery shop setting. Our business is all RV and we concentrate only on RV Awnings. We produce over 500 awning products a year, some are huge, so table space is very critical.
Our rolled goods come in 2 different sizes - 47 and 60. We utilize both acrylic and vinyl. The vinyl is our own brand in which we own the rights to its name Migliore. That is a 19 oz fabric, extremely heavy and 60 inches wide. We need robust tables and wide/long ones in order to handle the weight and width. So we built the tables all out of 2 x 4's.
Our main cutting/sewing table is 8 ft wide x 16 ft long. We have two machines inset at each end opposing. One being a twin needle and the other being a long arm. Since the table is so large we can sew in either direction. Our second table is 4 ft x 8 ft which we use with a second twin needle machine. That table is dedicated to a single operation and allows 2 of us to sew at the same time.
Both of our tables have shelving for storing goods underneath.
A small table will work for general upholstery but not for canvas work. We just finished a 24 ft patio awning and had to do some fancy fabric handling in order to get it sewn. Most of the vintage RV awnings I have seen are small so a table the size of ours may not be needed. Mike, Rick and myself all have large tables but all three of us have to handle large expanses of canvas.
I would build a small table ( 4 x 8 ) with a machine inset at first and make it modular so you can build on to it in the event she starts doing canvas. Our large table is all modular and comes apart in sections so we can move it once we get a larger facility. Here is a picture of our small table with storage underneath.
[urlhttp://s181.photobucket.com/user/throgmartin/media/Up%20Shop/Shop29.jpg.html?sort=3&o=12][/url]
Chris
if you will be doing awnings then you will need a larger table I do boat covers and upholstery and canvas rolls come 60" side my table has 2 machines one at each end set in 8 feet form each end 5 1/2' side 7 1/2' wide in the center section 27' long and with large covers I wish it was wider, I may add hinged wings to the far side.
and for working with boat canvas pattern I need to walk around the table cutting out the canvas.
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still fill up fast
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I used mealamine board for my table tops its smoothe and fast set up when setting up my shop to get to work fast and buld the table in one day and work the next
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Melamine-White-Panel-Common-5-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-625-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-461846/100007790
Mike, how do you keep your table so clutter-free? My table is a crap magnet... *sob*
He's cheating. Those pics are from when they first moved into the new shop. *wink*