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One thing with people like this, they would not have a clue how to do the work we do.

Before you do the other two chairs I would call the customer and tell them there will be an additional charge to have the chairs cleaned before you work on them because you don't feel you should have to deal with their years of dust, pet hair, skin particles, body oils, etc. Funny how they don't think about that.

I have worked hard to come up with this attitude, and sometimes I still have to work hard at it, but here's what I do:

I remind myself that I had to deal with this person for a very short period of time. They have to deal with themselves every second of every minute of every hour of every day of every week of every month of every year of every decade of their entire life! I got a much better deal than they did, and I feel grateful that I did. I still find it amazing that people like this can evoke a sense of gratitude in me.

gene

Trouble is, they don't know that they're the problem.

Almost always use a hot knife on Sunbrella, Coastguard and the like. I've repaired too many covers, even with bound edges, where the scissor cut edge frays, binding pulls off, etc.. There are times when it is not necessary though. Test for your self. Cut some scrap, 2 pieces with scissors, 2 pieces with hot knife. Sew the scissor cut together with binding and likewise with the hot knife cut. Pull on the edge of each and see what happens. Keep in mind your customer will be pulling on it much more than you will.

Best way to use a hot knife is to cover your table top with luann board and sand and finish with a sealer. Make it smooth! Take the foot off the hot knife if it came with one. Cut through the fabric on the luann table top. As the residue builds up on the blade file a new edge. The luann table top is also great to push pins into for holding materials for patterning, etc.  

I bind the center seam on bimini tops for looks. Keep in mind that I'm binding the factory edge that is laser cut anyway. But it's still top stitched. On cockpit covers I start with blanks double blind stitched along the factory seam.

I never burn a zipper to make a stop. Used to do the binding wrap technique. Now I just use the SS stops. So much easier. YKK even makes a top stop now that you push on the last tooth and twist. Haven't tried those yet.    

Most important question. What is his budget? I've got some ideas but his old frame becomes scrap. Everything from ground up. Might even include the Makefast hydraulic automatic bimini mounts.

http://www.makefast.com/acatalog/POWERED_CANOPY_BIMINI_UNITS.html

http://www.makefast.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_MAKEFAST_SLEEK_TRACK_SYSTEM_142.html#a3380

What year, make and model of boat? Main mounts on top of windshield or inside? how high is the arch? The top can remain as high as the arch. Maybe the best way is to flip the frame around and make a bimini with the arch acting as the fourth bow. This would eliminate the typical slant of the convertible over the helm area providing more headroom.

If this is going to be a convertible always attached to the arch on one end and the windshield on the other, you have to take safety into account. Dropping the frame so he can go under a bridge is going to make all the canvas loose and droopy affecting his visibility and ability to pilot the boat safely. You have to consider his safety and your liability if something goes wrong.

Sometimes you just have to tell the customer you don't feel comfortable doing what they want. I've had to do it and found the customer appreciated my concern.

HH-66 is actually a vinyl adhesive that melts the vinyl. The vinyl needs to be fairly new also.
A marina I know just tried to patch some tarps over covered slips and they didn't hold because
the material was to old. Brushing HH-66 on Sunbrella or canvas will show up pretty and make
a nice top look terrible.

For sealing seams in Sunbrella, dip a foam paintbrush in 303 Fabric Guard and apply liberally.
Works great! Plus, it coats the thread with UV protection.

Mike8560 - I just use the Osbourne punch. If you're punching a hole just through
webbing it is a pain because the loose weave of the webbing allows it to conform
to the end of the punch. But if the webbing is sewn to fabric, put the fabric side down and it will "stiffen" the webbing and punching the hole is no problem. If you punch the fabric side first the webbing will distort.

It works for me anyway. I'm typically sewing the webbing to Sunbrella or vinyl.

Don't do grommets on a regular basis but the last job I did was about 4 gross with hammer
style punch, #1 spur grommets. Narrow storm curtains on a huge houseboat. The real trick
to cutting the hole in webbing is to cut with the webbing side up. Always worked best for
me. I've always just used plywood or Starboard scrap as a backer.

A trick I used a couple of times is pull up all you can. Then get one of those cup
style wire brushes with the heavy wire. Put it in a buffer or grinder (variable
speed type) and it will take up the remaining fibers and backing in no time.
Don't use too much force or speed or you will gouge the plywood.

Be sure to wear eye protection in case some of the wires break off!

Our seamstress used to get wavy seams when she would make the welt. Turns out she set the spool on the floor and just pulled the cord as she went. Once we placed the spool on a rod and let the cord roll off the waves went away.

One trick with wavy seams is to steam from the inside. I've recovered many an odd shaped boat seat or cushion with a compound curve and steam smoothed everything out.

Maybe one of these? I think Dewalt or Craftsmen is making one now.

http://www.multimaster.info/fein-multimaster/us/en/main/

Dremel Multimax

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXFiaBWUvak&feature=related

We've run into the Discontinued Persian Tweed problem.

FYI there is a close replacement marketed in the Recacril line
called Green Tweed R-771. Available from Miami Corp.