I just finished chair upholstery that included double cording - quite a bit.
While performing the work, I did it the way things worked for me -- that is the cutting, sewing, and
installation.
The requirement met-- was no staples, cord had to be glued. It was a wing back, and given the turns,
the cord had to look consistent in terms of size and fabric tightness.
The installation, I put the glue on the chair opposed to the back of the cord. This was done because
there were tight turns to make with the cord.
Oh, I might mention that the cord was sewn in two passes because, given the fabric being applied, it
allowed me to make the cord with consistent tightness.
The cording was glued on approximately a foot at a time. Didn't want the glue to cool too early.
Back to making the cording; the material was cut large, sewed, then a final cut to installation size.
As a side comment:
When making the cord, I thought it would be nice to have a folder that would allow cutting the cord material, once before sewing, which would certainly speed the process of sewing the cord. (I don't do enough to justify a custom folder - maybe some of you do and have such?).
The work turned out fine, so the time spent was worth spending.
Just something to share with you professionals!
Doyle
I'm a one pass type of guy. I once had a race with a two pass guy and was surprised the time spent was the same and the final result was too.
Doyle, When doing this by hand without a folder and having curves like a wing chair, the fabric cut on the bias makes the curves cleaner and smoother. in case you didn't know. The inexpensive generic folders don't always work well. But when they do they save tuns of time with a lot of welt to be made.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW2Hc3mYBtA
This is my go to video on how to make double welt cord.
On thick fabric I will use 5/32" jute welt cord on one side and 6/32" cotton on the other in order to help make both cordings the same thickness, or at least closer to being the same thickness.
I appreciate your comment Doyle, "The work turned out fine, so the time spent was worth spending." It does take time to get things looking awesome.
I was in a home recently where I reupholstered an antique chair years ago with double welt cord. A seam of the double welt cord was right in the front of the chair. It was just a bit thicker than the rest of the welt cord. It looked great, and no one but an upholsterer would notice it, but wow did I notice it! :-)
gene
in a Home ? I knew Dr. Phil would catch up with you sooner or later -
You're safe now - but don't tell them anything and pretend to take the pills :)
SA
There are (or were) tech support firms to manufacturers and people like us who would make
a folders and welt feet for a specific requirement down to the material being sewn. That is, as the fabric gets thicker/thinner they would custom build a folder or whatever is needed to do work at a
manufacturing pace and accuracy. This was a much more effective option than the l
options of buying something that was doesn't work.
I will check my files to try recovering those or that service (one was in the GA area and maybe the other
was in Calif(not sure about this one however).
They (or that one service) would provide all sewing attachments for all industries not only furniture (they fit it all together down to the machine/product being produced).
Impressive business and a good service - not cheap as we would understand. Very much needed
for any industry involved in professional - intensive sewing.
Doyle
Researched my files on the custom manufacturer of welt feet, folders, etc: Tennessee Attachments and
located in Tennessee.
For small formal chairs I like to scale down the welt size for the chair. Something around 1/8 or 3/16 of an
inch. I have DW feet down to 1/8, and probably 2 or 3 other sizes.
This supports getting the best size for the chair size.
Doyle
Making DW is not always the same requirement.
Some frame are more delegate and those should discourage using nails, especially large nails.
Some do get a DW from the std 5/32 cord. A smaller DW cord is required.
Some customers do not want the staples or especially larger nails. No nails/staples please is what
I hear. I get that suggestion especially when the DW size desired is small (like 1/8 or smaller).
Turning 90 degree corners can also be accomplished by cutting a small wedge (close to 90 degrees)out.
These can also be handled with glue.
Large scroll or fat arms techniques are important and so are other techniques on other jobs.
Doyle