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sewing boat seating

Started by jsquail, March 15, 2011, 08:20:50 am

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jsquail

I am sewing up a couple of seats for a customer and have noticed some areas that i need to improve after sewing test pieces.

1. Stitch length. Currently I have my consew set on 8 for general marine canvas applications, however, would a smaller stitch length be btter for sewing together seats, such as a number 6 setting? I noticed in the corners with the welt it appears to need stitching thats closer together.

2. needle size. I typically use 22ga and v92 or v138 for general canvas applications but it appears that this size needle is making to large of a hole. Is it common practice to use a smaller needle such as an 18ga with v69 thread for marine seating applications?

3. Welting. Cornering with welting seems to be a pain in the ass. Are there any secrets to making the turn with welting?

4. Welting, Sewing the pieces together. When sewing the pieces of the seat together(Side, welt, and top) is it common practice to sew the welt to the top piece first then come back and sew the side(seems easier this way) or sew all three pieces at once? I would assume that if all three are to be sewn at once then it is best to staple the pieces together. Any pointers here would be appreciated.



thanks to all for the help!
Gloucester Canvas
www.gloucestercanvas.com
I can be found on Facebook and Google+ as Gloucester Canvas

Mojo

I will try and answer the best I can and hopefully one of the experts can jump on here. ( I am not an
expert ). :)

I use 138 and the smallest needle I can when sewing vinyl. I can get away with using an 18 gauge with 138. I typically set the stitch length at 8 to 8.5. I want the least amount of needle holes in vinyl as I can get.
I no longer use 92 because I was tired of having numerous spools around of 69, 92 and 138 so I standardized on 138. I like the eye pop it gives on vinyl and it is a stronger thread.

If your making your own welt then let me suggest you head to Tractor Supply or Quality Farm and Fleet and buy some hog nippers. Farmers use them to cut a V notch on the ears of hogs. I bought a pair and love them. One cut and you have a perfect relief on welting, etc. This makes it easier to get around corners. They are fairly cheap and rugged as they are made of stainless.

I am going to defer the sewing of the welt to someone else. We all do it differently. I sew two pieces at a time. Others sew more.

Hopefully one of our seasoned veterans can jump on this and offer some advice.

Chris

jsquail

Quote from: Mojo on March 15, 2011, 02:54:36 pm


If your making your own welt then let me suggest you head to Tractor Supply or Quality Farm and Fleet and buy some hog nippers. Farmers use them to cut a V notch on the ears of hogs. I bought a pair and love them. One cut and you have a perfect relief on welting, etc. This makes it easier to get around corners. They are fairly cheap and rugged as they are made of stainless.


Chris


Great idea!!!! Looks like its time to hit the local TSC!
Gloucester Canvas
www.gloucestercanvas.com
I can be found on Facebook and Google+ as Gloucester Canvas

BigJohn

March 16, 2011, 08:59:08 am #3 Last Edit: March 16, 2011, 09:09:22 am by BigJohn
#20 needle with 92 polyester thread and hog ear nippers used here.I think some of the suppliers on this board sell them, the one that comes to mind is DLT, I got mine from Mills Fleet Farm.

    Another thing to keep in mind is using a welt foot that has the rear portion of outside groove ground away to allow for better cornering. Maybe others can better explain what I've mention about ground away welt foot.

     Below is a link to a picture of the "pinked" welt:
http://quality-trim.com/weltings.asp

Highvelocity

I have come to the same conclusion as Mojo,,,I always use 138 and just recently I a using #18 needle,,,and its been working well.  I use a 6 stitch, I guess I could try bigger. 

When it comes to welt and corners you have to get your mind right...  The bottom needs to keep kissing the 1/2 seam allowance mark while the top piece is being fed almost straight on. 

It's kind of a mind trick because you can start reversing the process and loss track of the bottom then it's not good...  Sometimes you have to go back and tighten the corners up if you have a gap, but hopefully as you get more seat time you will have to do less of that.  Practice it slowly, keep an eye to whats happening, finger positioning will get better too.  You can hold the welt in close to the needle while sewing the box on with your left index finger,,,just don't run over you finger,,,again it's seat time.  I am 3 years into this craft and my corners are just getting what I would consider good.

good luck, Ed
Boats Love Hundred Dollar Bills

jsquail

hog ear clippers are the hot ticket!! it made the welting job way easier than i had expected. I also ordered a welt foot with the cutout from keysew and I cant wait til it gets here. I was able to get my seams tigher in the curves by using a 6 stitch length and hand turning the wheel while operating the knee lifter. I am going to post a pic of the before and after seating in the green room.

Thanks for the help and suggestions!!!!
Gloucester Canvas
www.gloucestercanvas.com
I can be found on Facebook and Google+ as Gloucester Canvas

fragged8

as well as a welt foot get a zipper foot
some people find the corners easier using
the zipper foot.

Rich

Grebo

Quote from: fragged8 on March 19, 2011, 05:49:05 pm
as well as a welt foot get a zipper foot
some people find the corners easier using
the zipper foot.

Rich



Yeh me for one  ;D

jsquail

I have zipper feet. Never thought to use them. I will have to give them a try on my next seating job......
Gloucester Canvas
www.gloucestercanvas.com
I can be found on Facebook and Google+ as Gloucester Canvas