The world of leather is huge. Cow, sheep, goat, etc. Then various tanning methods and grades, finishes and more.
I specifically need to know about seating. Does anyone know a minimum requirement? Something like a double rub or abrasion test.
I wouldn't even try a 'thin' leather but I'm not sure where to draw the line.
This is from my website.
Leather hides are split to make it suitable for working with. How many times it is split determines the thickness. The thickness is usually measured in ounces. One ounce equals 1/64 in thickness. A good thickness for furniture is 2.25-2.5 oz
Top grain leather is the most desirable and last longer. Split grain is often used on cheaper furniture and tends to crack after only a few years.
Dyeing process. Although there are many different chemical processes to get different results in leather, most leather is categorized into three groups.
1. Aniline dyed is the most natural. It leaves noticeable scars and wrinkles. Aniline dyed leather is dyed all the way through the hide. If a scratch occurs it will be the same color as the dye. The problem with aniline dyed leather is it has no topcoat. This causes variations in color throughout the hide's surface.
2. Simi-Aniline dyed leather is the same as aniline dyed leather except a thin protective coat is applied to the surface to make it more uniform.
3. Pigmented leather is the most expensive, durable and desirable in upholstery. A protective topcoat is applied to protect it from spills and scratches. This coating also hides blemishes and makes a nice smooth surface that eliminates variations in color.
Everybody has their own idea about what makes the best leather. I had one customer who gave me a hide to do a small chair. It was full of flaws. When I told him I would try to cut around the flaws he said leave them in. He liked the rustic look with scratches, blotchy color and imperfections.
http://www.northfloridachair.com/Leather.html
Thanks Kody. Just the info I needed.