I'm having a hard time with the intersectsons.ive mess up 4 or 5 now
Can anyone tell me the right way to do french seams that intersect.
I no I have to sew around the corner first
should I sew the boxing first then sew the boxing to the plate
And how should I cut away the selvage at the intersection.
Hear are some pic of the work
Thanks Mike H
It COLDER THAN A WHORES HART hear in MI. 8f -12 winchill ouch!
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi275.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj300%2Fdadhuff%2FSewing%2520New%2FSN850299.jpg&hash=4b827b698d88cdf8c6056cafedf6c049)
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Hear a link to bigger pics
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj300/dadhuff/Sewing%20New/
i'm no expert but i would sew the boxing first then attach it to
the plate.
I think i would avoid the boxing ending right on the corner,
In that case i would sew most of the boxing on ending away
from the corner leaving 2 or 3 inches either side of the join un sewn
then join the boxing and top sew, sew the final part of the boxing to the plate
going over the boxing join.
Rich
QuoteIt COLDER THAN A WHORES HART hear in MI. 8f -12 winchill ouch!
We had a cold snap last week too. minus 30 º C windchills of forty below.Nice today though. minus 10 º C and no wind.That's about 15 ºF.
As Richard states, try to avoid boxing seams right on the corner. It really makes life difficult. Having said that, I've done it before.
http://www.harborcushions.com/photos/P1010131.JPG
Sew and topstitch the boxing first. Then sew boxing to the plate. Both the boxing and the plate will have to have "V" notches cut to avoid bunching under the seam. In my pic, you'll see that I could have cut more/bigger "V's". It's a little thick on the corner. When sewing the topstitch on the corner, more V's makes it hard to keep the selvedge spread open, but is absolutely necessary. I always turn the piece right side out - as it will be installed, and look in the corner to see if there's a wavy/wrinkled mess of selvedge that indicates more needs to be cut out.
June
Thanks Rich & June i understand this a little better now
But what about where the corner meats the hull 45% angle
whould'nt it have to be on the corner
Hing with me ill be back with more pics
Thanks Mike H
So this is a v-berth cushion where the foam is undercut? The corner is the logical place to put a seam in the boxing for those, but you can place seams a few inches off the corner on both sides if that's acceptable. On V-births, I don't typically do french seams on the boxing - just on the plate/boxing seam if that's requested. You're going to have a heck of a time getting into that acute corner to do topstitching unless you have a post-bed machine.
June
I was thinking about this thread while cutting/gluing/bevelling foam for a large interior job I've been working on. I never topstitch cushions that way unless it's a customer specification. Rather, I topstitch the allowance of the boxing and the top/bottom to the boxing. It reduces the amount of notching to the corners (or the relatively unusual concave arc) as there is no excess fabric to "squeeze in" and limiting the needle holes means less water gets inside the cover. It also makes topstitching the acute angles of a bevelled cushion considerably easier, as June pointed out. It's also faster as you only have to drive around the cushion twice instead of three times. ;)
I don't generally like to have a seam in the corners, either, although on cushions with a bevelled edge it's normal to end the zipper boxing a the corners. Here's another trick to try if the seam is going to end up in a corner: when you stitch the boxing pcs. together begin and end your seam shy of the edge by the amount of your seam allowance. Do the same thing with your topstitching. This has the advantage of leaving the boxing "open" at the corner. Drive to the corner and backtack. Begin stitching on the other side of the corner and back tack; you are effectively starting and stopping precisely at the corner. This is a tailoring technique typically used on bound buttonholes, welt pockets, and notched collar and lapel applications. Very useful trick to know!
If you find yourself in a mood to do some detective work on You Tube you could search for couture sewing techniques/tailoring to get the real skinny on how to properly clip, notch (they're not the same thing), and grade seams. Knowing how to properly, neatly, and efficiently reduce bulk will help deliver a more professional result and make your life a lot easier.
Thanks Bobbin you guys are the best talk to you tomarrow
Mike H
I topstitch the allowance of the boxing and the top/bottom to the boxing. It reduces the amount of notching to the corners (or the relatively unusual concave arc) as there is no excess fabric to "squeeze in" and limiting the needle holes means less water gets inside the cover. It also makes topstitching the acute angles of a bevelled cushion considerably easier, as June pointed out. It's also faster as you only have to drive around the cushion twice instead of three times.
Bobbin when you say topstitch the allowance of the boxing
are you referring to a flat felted seem?
Thanks Mike H
OK, let's clarify a few terms. Most of what is common terminology in the marine, awning, auto trimming field is nothing more than a variation on topstitching to someone from a tailoring/couture sewing background. When I say "topstitching" I mean that the seam is stitched once, the allowance is then folded to one side (or opened) and the allowances are stitched in place from the top of the work. This is mostly decorative, although it has the added advantage of strengthening a seam, too.
What you guys call a "french seam" is not what I was trained to call a "french seam. To me, a "french seam" is a seam to join 2 pcs. of fabric and fully encase the seam allowance. It's used to for straight side seams on garments or in drapery work; most common on silks, chiffons, georgette, voile, and other very lightweight fabric that tends to ravel. It's done like this: first you put the pcs. together wrong sides together, stitch a 3/8 seam, press to one side, trim, and then fold the fabric back over the allowance and stitch the seam again, this time with a 1/4" seam. The result is a slim, double stitched seam with the raw edges of the allowance fully encased between the first line of stitching and the second one. The seam is tidy and slim, "low profile" and perfect for relatively sheer fabrics.
A flat felled seam is another way of encasing the raw edge of a seam allowance but this seam treatment allows you to negotiate curves with ease, unlike the french seam. This is the classic seam treatment in "Oxford shirts", and on blue jeans; it requires a double needle machine and a folder attachment for the machine in question, as the seam allowances of both pcs. are folded over and then tucked under each other and the finished seam has two folded edges held down by two rows of stitching. A "mock flat felled seam" is executed like this: you stitch the seam as you would any seam, with the right sides of the fabric together. Then you trim one of the allowances to 3/8", leaving the other at 5/8". The longer allowance is pressed over the trimmed one and the raw edge of the longer one is then turned under and a neat row of topstitching is executed along the fold. There are folders available that will allow you to perform this operation in one pass, rather than the two I've just described.
I find it really interesting to learn how different facets of the needle trades name and treat the basics of seaming. I also really like how treatments common to one aspect of the industry translate to others and how we all manage to master little time saving techniques that improve the quality and look of our work. It's why I'm still working in this trade and have yet to be completely bored out of my mind by it!
Of it's a v berth it probly cloth what I do normaly and most I've eplaced were just a blind seam with no topstitching. Tonme a blind seam is just to pieces of material sewn face to face from the backside topstitching. Would be to now fold the selvage to one side and run a row of stitches on folded seam from the top sewing through the two pieces. Just a blind stitch youndont have anything to catch on even if if topstitched
with the topstiching on the side.
Thanks Bobbin im thinking it might be some of the split terminology that holding me back a little.
The correct names and terminology can be important.... especially when trying to solve an issue via a forum.
If we can at least speak close to the same language, it helps us communicate.
You guy are my teachers the only ones i have. You guys are real deal
don't get me wrong im reading books and all over the internet.
But this is the only place that has advance my working skills
Just in this thread i feel like I've move up a lot.Its a really nice feeling moving from one faze to another.
Mike8560 Im using Nauga Soft Interior Vinyl. This fabric is very soft and nice to work with
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj300/dadhuff/Sewing%20New/SN850303.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj300/dadhuff/Sewing%20New/SN850304.jpg
Mike H
Your topstitching is as neat as a pin. Not much room for error when working with vinyls or leather! the holes don't go away the way they do on wovens.
The seam you'all call a french seam I have always known as a boot seam.
Is what your doing backed up with a strip of vinyl for strength and water resistance.
Quote from: scottymc on January 26, 2011, 12:40:07 pm
The seam you'all call a french seam I have always known as a boot seam.
Is what your doing backed up with a strip of vinyl for strength and water resistance.
Yes its back up with a 2" pc of the same mat.
Quote from: bobbin on January 26, 2011, 12:06:43 pm
Your topstitching is as neat as a pin. Not much room for error when working with vinyls or leather! the holes don't go away the way they do on wovens.
Wow my first complement Thanks Bobbin
Therapy--- It looks like you started from 2 points with a closed loop that was too big.
As a rule, I don't sew a closed loop of boxing, when I start boxing I leave about 5 inches loose, then when I come around on the start I cut to suit leaving a 1/2 seam allowance. At that point.... I sew the loop closed...then fish attaching it to the box. Sorry if I said the samething as other people.
BTW-you can fix what you have by adding a piece of boxing. Blast the seam back about a foot then then seam in a longer piece of boxing to make it to the corner with seam allowance.
Quote from: Highvelocity on January 28, 2011, 08:09:37 am
Therapy--- It looks like you started from 2 points with a closed loop that was too big.
As a rule, I don't sew a closed loop of boxing, when I start boxing I leave about 5 inches loose, then when I come around on the start I cut to suit leaving a 1/2 seam allowance. At that point.... I sew the loop closed...then fish attaching it to the box. Sorry if I said the samething as other people.
BTW-you can fix what you have by adding a piece of boxing. Blast the seam back about a foot then then seam in a longer piece of boxing to make it to the corner with seam allowance.
Im finding this out
The 5"loose sounds like a safe allowance
Take a Look im getting there MikeH
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj300/dadhuff/Sewing%20New/SN850303.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj300/dadhuff/Sewing%20New/SN850304.jpg
mike it looks like to me your top plate and probly the bottom was to big . i cut mine a bit biggger 3/8 to 1/2" and the boxing the same as the foam ofcourse the side against the hull will be a bit wider and curved
Quote from: Mike8560 on January 30, 2011, 04:04:20 pm
mike it looks like to me your top plate and probly the bottom was to big . i cut mine a bit biggger 3/8 to 1/2" and the boxing the same as the foam ofcourse the side against the hull will be a bit wider and curved
Hi Mike your right i made the top plate seam allowance 3/4 wider so the seam would lay on the top side of the boxing i got that tip from June. there's no bottom plate just plywood and yes the side against the hull are 2" wider