Ok starting a big job, complete sewout of a 52' sportfisherman. The first step is to tear out the work started by the owner. He was glueing up thin foam and vinyl. Not going there again. His work has the typical hand prints and dents. My experience is slim in this area except for the nightmare last summer of a glue up that took too long and caused too many gray hairs. I've been given freehand on what to use. Right now the boat has no finishes. Like a house before drywall. In the salon there's bare ply. Below there are framing members. What system would you recommend for ease of installation and finished look? There's a LOT of work in this boat. Don't want to get hung up on the 1st step which is headliner. Thanks in advance.
Can you post any pictures of this start, Im interested in the base/framing
thanks
I'd do headliner track (like WhisperWalls). TriVantage sells the track and tools. The end result is really professional looking. If you plan the track placement you can really reduce waste and putting up the fabric/vinyl is fairly quick. Next would be covering luan panels that stick up with dual lock, but getting them sized/shaped for a new installation would take a lot of futzing around.
June
my first pic post?
<a href="http://s382.beta.photobucket.com/user/forsailbyowner/media/waverider4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo269/forsailbyowner/waverider4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo waverider4.jpg"/></a>
oh well at least I got a link that worked, heres the work the owner started
<a href="http://s382.beta.photobucket.com/user/forsailbyowner/media/waverider3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo269/forsailbyowner/waverider3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo waverider3.jpg"/></a>
Here's a pic of the headliner track installation.
http://www.harborcushions.com/photos/Formula%20400SS/Headliner%20going%20up.JPG
You can just see the track at the top of the photo. The foam (1") was glued to the deck and the vinyl was unlined. After tucking in both edges, and tensioning, you trim the excess and tuck that into the track. It's really a clean finished look when done. What I really like about the system is that you really have to screw up badly to make it irreversible. If you get a pull or wrinkle here or there, just pull that out of the track and do it over.
http://www.harborcushions.com/photos/Formula%20400SS/New%20hull%20liner%20and%20headliner.JPG
June
JuneC
Is this how im to get this, use dual lock on the bottom side of framing/deck support so as to mount luan board to so it could have access if and whenever. then use adhesive for 1'' foam to luan between the track. in whatever way that is some super products your using and put together for a great job on that one.
forsailbyowner
What would be a good width for pieces of luan or whatever up there if future wiring or whatever access is wanted. Did i see insulation board in the pic to be used also.
Hey thanks to both of you for the pics I realy appreciate the help understanding your projects.
Thanks bunches June. In a prior life I did a LOT of accoustic ceiling and this seems right up my track. I take it this stuff is fairly flexible as it looks like your work is contoured. Theres a spot where the ceiling is concave. I see provisions for penetrations also as he has led lighting in the salon and various ac ducts and lights below. Try another pic or two
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(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi382.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo269%2Fforsailbyowner%2Fwaverider6.jpg&hash=f94c61b33de40c3ab36bd8ab13e4c158)
I e only done the old way perfeoated white vinyl stapled aroubd the edge then nirmaly covered with wooden strip on a center seam stapled with a plastic strip for stiffnes the folded over pulled tight to the nest rossbean. Last one was on a 72. 58' hatterass.
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/covers/6449EA3E-3E34-46BC-B632-9D1A3AB94C97-1805-0000025810981363.jpg
Having problems finding a source, is this the center span track?
http://www.trivantage.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/tri-us/PVC+Awning+Double+Ceiling+Molding+R1338+8+White+Standard+Pack+80+Feet+251057+
I searched whisper and whisper ceiling at trivantage and this is the only thing close. I will contact whisper wall .
On TriVantage look up "headliner track". It's not Whisper Walls - that's a trade name and they're not likely to sell to you without you buying into their franchise or dealership. I don't know how they work but I do know their system is very expensive.
The track comes in two profiles - center and edge. The center track has a flange on both sides that you screw into the framework. The edge profile has a flange on one side. It's a fairly stiff plastic and grips the vinyl tightly, but is flexible on long runs. For curves along the edge, you may need to notch the flange so it bends. It might not work at all in some very tight spots and you'll have to come up with a different attachment method. You can always cut and put up very short pieces, but be aware that you'll need at least 5 or 6 inches clearance below it to get a headliner tool in there to tuck the vinyl. And the Osborne headliner tool is really all you need. Their $125 headliner tools are nice, but IMHO not really necessary. If you want to splurge, get the pizza cutter, forget the straight edge and use the $7 Osborne.
Around lights, I just go straight over with the vinyl, then cut out a hole afterwards and staple to the light base - usually lights are mounted on a block of wood. The trim rings cover staples. I'd never go around a light or hatch with headliner track. It's just not necessary since you can staple.
June
Oh, one more thing. If you want insulation, glue foam to the ceiling. The track isn't large enough to accommodate vinyl with 1/4" foam backing. Get a vinyl (if you're not using woven) with a sturdy backing. I wouldn't use the fuzzy-backed stuff.
Can't thank you enough June. Your a lifesaver.
We got a couple pieces of that track to try, never used it on a job though. I made a sample and bent it with the heat gun just like awning rail. Worked great. We've never had the guts to try it on a job though.
What do you think about using it on something like 30'-40' Searay?
I thought it would open a different can of worms, and maybe not worth it as opposed to just muscling through the glue job. 'The devil you know...' I'd sure love an alternative though. And it really does look plush. And replacing stained panels with little effort would be a huge bonus.
From what you decribe june on the pizza cutter tool.to insert it in a groove perhas one of thoose tool with the little wheels to insert the runner strip to install screening on a lania or pool screen cage.
The spline tool is too thick, Mike. You need something with a strong metal blade. I've heard of folks making their own. If you have a grinder, any stainless trowel or paint scraper from the hardware store, or a sturdy pizza cutter from the kitchen supply will work a treat if you take off the sharp corners and edges. Next project I get I'm going to try a wheeled pizza cutter and do just that. I have the TriV pizza cutter, but it's just a curved blade, not a wheel.
Peppy, getting the track in the correct place would be the most difficult part of the job. Along the edges would probably be easy - just follow the lines of the boat. Overhead, if there aren't stringers or something else to follow, measuring and getting the curved pieces across the beam evenly spaced and looking "straight" might be a time killer. You could run them fore-aft, but I think cross beam makes boat look roomier (JMHO).
June
While looking online at the whisper wall I ran across many stretched ceiling companies. What a cool concept. There's just a perimeter track and a lightweight membrane that is stretched in place. Maybe not suitable for marine? Says the average room can be completed in 2-4 hours depending on protrusions. I've literally done square miles of ceilings and never seen anything like this.Barrisol is one manufacterer.
Id think it hard to streach a fabric saw 8' around the perimiter and fet it tight enough not to sag in the middle. Even the method i used abovd had rafter a out 44" apart a ross the ceiling.
Is there any of the original headliner still in the boat ?
As for original headliner no theres none. There is a couple of pieces the owner started glueing up with hand prints and dents that is coming down.
June for purposes of doing a takeoff on the track. How far apart would you recommend laying out the centers? In the salon area there is plywood above. down below there are the framing timbers. They looked to be on pretty close centers. I didnt measure but they looked max of 16", This is a wood boat thus the wood timbers etc.,,,
On the hatteras i last did the eooden rafter were im gueese about 36" apart
If the framing timbers are 16" apart, I'd put track on every-other-one. You could tension 32-36" of headliner easily without any appreciable sag in between, especially if there are light fixtures and/or hatches which helps to hold the whole thing up when you staple around them.
June
Steve, I'm in Tampa FL tonight and will be in the area tomorrow. Email my work or call me. I need to show you the fast mount system. You can go to you tube and look it up. Nice videos on it.
One last question before I head out to get this job started. On fastening the track, space of and type of fastener? Im guessing "stitched" on with staples?
I'm not sure staples would hold it well enough. I like #6 or #8 wood screws - 1/2" to 3/4", depending on how thick your framing is. Stainless, of course.
June