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I've run across this a couple of times in boats and generally don't worry about using
webbing to replace the old stuff. I will typically just staple in a couple of layers of
Textilene mesh. The customers loved the new firmness.

Personally, I don't like that feeling of sinking into a seat. I have a late 80's car with
Recaro seats. They have a rubber sheet supporting the cushion foam. I took them
apart and sewed Textilene right over the rubber. Feels much better and I sit a little
higher. Better on my back too.

It's expensive but Sunbrella Supreme wouold be a great material for this project. Soft, suede feel
underside.

With no fasteners you will have to come up with a method to keep the cover from sliding around.
Had a friend with a center console full cover over the Tee Top and the wind would slide it around
because the bungi wouldn't hold it in place. I got under the cover while it was on and marked
to top framing, cleats and rails. Sewed some straps with buckles at select spots inside and fixed
the problem.

We pattern the carpet and send it out to Matworks or Corinthian Carpets. Corinthian Carpets doesn't
charge freight to commercial addresses. Call each and get samples.

Binding carpet doesn't work properly with the standard attachments for our machines.

Word of caution, don't use the old carpet as a pattern. I have had customers try to do it themselves
and they don't take shrinkage into account.

I wonder if the windows being replaced were vinyl windows. Vinyl will shrink with age and is more
susceptible to dimension stability with temperature change.

Bayliner went throught many windshield frame types. Can you post a pic of the framing?

I would just use #10 cotton duck. If you plan on making a lot you can buy rolls from
Top Value Fabrics.

You might want to compare what you need to charge against what is already available.

The tool that everyone needs is this

http://www.mechanicstoolswarehouse.com/Hand-Operated-Hydraulic-Riveter-Kit-P18129.aspx

Best money I ever spent. Sets 3/16 SS rivets in frame hardware easy. Comes with a narrow
tip small enough to fit in the male snap recess. I use the Manart Quick-Snap, but for installing
in tubing only.

I will not install rivet style snaps in fiberglass period!!!! The rivet expands and crushes the fiberglass,
beginning the process of loosening the grip of the rivet. To be riveted correctly, a backing washer
should be put on the backside so the rivet expands against the washer. Typically we can't get to the
back. Second problem with riveting is when it pulls out the hole is usually to big for a screw style
stud to catch. I have probably replaced 1000 rivet on snaps in my time.

Problem with that video, they are using aluminum snaps which always oxidize and break as well as
start loosening with use.

Rivet snaps do not belong on the hull of a boat!!!

Story - Us Marine (Maxum and Bayliner) have used rivet on snaps for years. The cup only style. When
installed they fill the cup with silicone caulk. A customer we did a windshield cover for (screw style snap)
complained to a Maxum customer rep about some leaking around the windshield. When the rep inspected
the boat he blamed it on us because we didn't fill the snap cups with silicone. I went ballastic! We always
put silicone caulk behind the snap flange. Their method of filling the cup does nothing for water getting
behind the snap especially when they loosen up from crushing the fiberglass and weakening aluminum rivets.
Needless to say, I had to give this know-it-all factory rep some education. Turns out the leakage was coming
from somewhere the factory forgot to caulk.

M ike,

Is that cover secure enough for travel  (freeway speeds) with just the snaps alone, or did you also add something (like tabs with grommets) for extra security?

I never tell a customer they can tow a boat with a cover on. Especially one with snaps. I've seen boats that had the snaps ripped out of the hull because the customer towed with it on.

You have no idea how fast the customer will drive or in what weather conditions. Bad idea to tell a customer
they can tow with a cover on. I won't even tell them they can tow with a strap down storage cover on. I know
there are companies that offer trailerable covers but I've fixed a bunch of those.

You can get adjusting external end plugs from Performance Textiles. Like regular eye ends but the eye part
unscrews to adjust. In the 1" size they make a right and left hand version so you can twist the pole in place
and it will shorten or lengthen. They don't have a website but I will scan the page later and email to you.

His top is old and shot. Straps to hold the secondary bow have slipped forward. The rear support bars
may have slipped down but I have seen some Bayliners that have similar placement. I looks like that
top has had a considerable amount of rain or snow collect in it which has stretched it out. The secondary
bow has lost its' crown due to the weight of the aforementioned rain or snow. As long as the bows aren't
kinked they can be reshaped.

Reshape the frame as required, setup to fit with the forward bow about 2" - 3" higher than the rear bow
and go to town.

In the sample picture of what your customer wants, look where the dart is in relation to the forward bow.
It's actually forward of where it is supposed to lie on the corner. This indicates the retaining straps have
been shortened to take out puddling. Raising the forward bow as indicated will aid in runoff and prevent
that from happening. We don't use straps to hold bows in place because they typically slide off to the
side. Always use a sleeve/pocket/listing or whatever you want to call it.

The problem is, everyone will give you a different story. Insurance applications are different if you're
working on the boat while it is in the water of if it is blocked or trailered on land. One thing to make
sure of is that you have "Care and Control" on your policy. From start to finish of the project you
technically have care and control of the vessel. This might be what the yard calls Ship Repairers Liability.
No matter what service you are performing you have been granted access to the boat and given control.
Your policy might already include this so verify that with your agent.

What really sucks is that our line of work is based in the same category as mechanics and service people
that work on electronics. What we do is only one step up from detailers yet our insurance rates are the
same as mechanics. When was the last time anyone had a legitimate insurance claim filed against them.

I had a marina that wanted me to provide OSHA certification. That certification cost $10,000 for the classes.
After many days on the phone getting passed from one authority to another, I finally reached someone with
some sense that told me canvas work falls under the classification of an artisan and the certification wasn't
needed. However, that was because I was a proprietor. If you're incorporated, even if you're the only person
doing work, then you're an employee and different requirements may have to be met. For example, employees
are supposed to have had safety training and wear a PFD while performing work on the boat while it's in the
water.

A friend of mine has an HVAC business. They had a customer in a big marina with a floating condo and had
serviced his HVAC for years. Seems this marina had a problem with some shady vendors. Because of that they
had to go through this big ordeal of making sure everyone had all kinds of insurance. One day the HVAC tech
goes to service the condo and is hit at the front desk with all these forms that had to be filled out. My friend
called the customer and told him they could no longer service him because it would cost more to fulfill the
marina requirements than he could bill the customer for in 20 years.

I would start with a taxidermist.

Jojo - You don't want to put snaps anywhere they can catch on something. I've seen boats that had them
installed in the hull a few inches below the rub rail and were ripped out when the boat laid up against a dock.
Also when rafting together it puts them in a position to cause damage to another boat if the captain doesn't
get the fenders tied on before approaching. I know it sounds stupid but I've seen a lot of stupid stuff happen
on the water and in marinas in my time.

If you go the rubrail route they have to go on the underside only if the rail is thick enough. You don't want to put
them on the face of the rail because they can snap a line just when you're trying to land that big one. If the
customer is an avid fisher and you must do a snap on cover I would go a couple of inches above the rub rail.
That leaves a comfortable space to grab the edge of the cover when taking it off but low enough so it doesn't
put the snaps in the way of a fishing line just like on the face of the rubrail.

In cases like this I explain the pros and cons of each method to my customer and let them make the decision. 

Having it on in the water changes everything. You're going to need some attachment to the boat. How much
depends on the weather in your area. Forget about drawcord or webbing in the hem. Your customer will hate
putting in on and could risk falling in while trying. To me, using drawcord or webbing in the hem should be left
to boats that stay on the trailer when not in use.

I've done full snap on covers like this before and have made them in sections so it's not all one big giant piece
to put on. The boats were kept on lifts. If the boat has a fat rub rail you can put snaps on the underside of the
rub rail. Never put snaps in the hull below the rubrail. You don't know how much I hate it when I've seen
someone do that. 

Usually I figure out where the panel separations will be and mark for a fastener 1-1/2" on either side
to allow room for the zipper. Then I determine if any cutouts or other requirements dictate fastener
placement between the panel zippers and mark those. Once that is done I will divide the space in between
equally. 10" - 12" should be fine but sometimes it's a little less or more.