Help on dinette cushions

[Therapy]

Hi guys well im done with the berth  cushions  thank god
I learned a lot doing them.
#1. I will not do a French seem on tight corners
Bobbin said it best "Good Luck With That!"
And from June
On V-births, I don't typically do french seams on the boxing - just on the plate/boxing seam if that's requested.  You're going to have a heck of a time getting into that acute corner to do top stitching unless you have a post-bed machine.Thanks June i get That now

Any way ive move on to the dinette  cushions The question i have is there away i can
make the vinyl nice and square  where the 1/2" foam meats 4" foam

I was thinking maybe glue but that would pull out over time
I'm thinking your going to say cut the foam and make it into two pices
 Thanks Mike H  

[JuneC]

It was glued before?  I hate that.  BTW, if you put enough glue it won't pull out.  I got burned a few years ago doing a Cobalt where the bolster "dip" had been glued without any pull/listing.  I ended up cutting the foam and putting in a pull.  There was too much glue residue on the foam for me to just add another layer and not have it show.  But, before I pulled off the skins, I would have sworn there was a pull in there.  It had NOT released.

June

[Therapy]

It was glued before?  I hate that.  BTW, if you put enough glue it won't pull out.  I got burned a few years ago doing a Cobalt where the bolster "dip" had been glued without any pull/listing.  I ended up cutting the foam and putting in a pull.  There was too much glue residue on the foam for me to just add another layer and not have it show.  But, before I pulled off the skins, I would have sworn there was a pull in there.  It had NOT released.

June

Hi june how would i go about putting in a pull or listing?
Im entering new waters here please please :-\
                 Thanks Mike H

[fragged8]

there are 3 or more ways i know of .

1. Liquid listing ,, sew some loose fabric along the seam where you want to
pull the fabric down, by loose i mean a nylon or light cotton type weave.

cut the foam in two and glue the listing to the face of the foam, making sure it
is pulled down enough to give the desired affect.

2. standard Listing, again cut the foam add the listing material to the cover
in the normal way, it helps to calculate how long you need the listing so you get an even pull down.
so if you're pulling the seam down 1/2" and the foam is 4" thick you need to draw a line 3 1/2
down from the top of the listing, make sure the listing is at least 1" longer than this though.

then if the seat is ply backed you can staple the listing to the ply back using the 3 1/2" line
as a guide to get an even pull down, if the seat is fabric both sides you can sew the listing
to the cover back. You may need to add a zipper into the listing to get the foam in the back
or front of the cover depending on where the main cover zips are located.

I got the zipper in the listing tip from June ages ago and it works really well .

[JuneC]

Is the seat bottom hard (wood/plastic)? where you'll be stapling the cover on?  Or is it soft fabric all around?  Richard has just about covered how to do it, but the zip in the listing bit is really confusing till you've seen it.  It's difficult to describe without drawings or pics. 

As for cutting your foam, just do a vertical cut right where the level drops.  Make it all the way to the bottom, and you'll have to remove one piece - whichever is easier.  I usually pull off the smallest piece since it's typically glued to the board with some awful stuff.  I frequently have to cut the foam off the board with my turkey slicer.  I'm doing a Tiara seat in the shop now with listings.  Tomorrow I'll take pics of the insides for those who are unfamiliar with what/how these internal listings are used.  Asta manana...

June

[Therapy]

Thanks June & fragged
Yes it  dose have a plywood bottom but it wasnt glue to the board.
Looks like im waiting for the pics :)
       Mike H

[bobbin]

Is a "listing" the same thing as a "draw strip"?  I've never heard the term before. 

I have used the little zippered "casing" idea before on cushions that have a knee roll in them, works slick, it's a nice way to add some shape to cushions that are loose and not stapled to a platform. 

[Mike8560]

With the woo. Ottom it's going to be alot siimpler. 
just have a seam at the 2 diffent pieces (the foam would be cut into two).
Sew a strip of fabric at the seam onThe inside and it is stapled down to pull the cover down at the seam.
Bobbin I call it a pull listing I learned on here. 

[JuneC]

Ok, here's the Tiara helm seat.

The foam


The skin inside.  Note the mesh pull/listing/whatever sewn into the center seam. 


The skin outside.


Put skin over foam that is still attached to board, staple mesh pull along the foam/seam line.  Here's where it gets critical to pull the same depth all along the seam.  The top will be all up/down if the tension isn't consistent.


Put loose piece of foam back in place, pull vinyl around to the bottom and staple.


The seat back is not stapled (except for the pull).  It's a complete cover with a zip along the bottom.  Here's the vinyl pulled over and the center pull stapled in place.


The aluminum arms are inserted through the skin bottom and screwed into place.


The bottom section of foam is put back in place and the opening zipped closed.


The finished seat.


June

[bobbin]

Fabulous tutorial, June! 

I note that you use textilene for the "listing", isn't that the greatest stuff?!  it's as tough as nails and I think it has about 101 excellent uses. 

[Therapy]

Thanks June thats what i needed
Ive been wating for the pics. nice job
This thread fell off the 1st. page and i thought you for got.
Now i can get going on the dinette  cushions
I understand it now and thank you for the pics
#1 cut foam
#2 sew listing into the center seam.
#3  Put skin over foam that is still attached to board, staple mesh pull
Here's where it gets critical to pull the same depth all along the seam.  The top will be all up/down if the tension isn't consistent.
I think #3 will be the hard one to get right.

I have 2 questions not related to the listing stay pull.
Is that a Juki 563 i see.
And i see some Flexteak under the table where do you
buy yours from.
                      Thanks   Mike H

[JuneC]

Bobbin, I like mesh for the pulls because it doesn't restrict water flow.  I've opened up too many cushions where the pull was vinyl and the water inside never got a chance to drain.  The mesh is strong, doesn't react badly when I have to pull out/reinstall staples because I got the position wrong, and permits the water to flow to the lowest point which aids in drying out the foam.

Mike, that's a Singer 111W155.   I have two of them - the newer silver one in the shop (large bobbin) and an older small bobbin at home - for those days when I have small projects and I don't feel like driving there. 

We (my husband and I) get the Flexiteek from the US importer - Flexiteek.  Our other refit business is also a Flexiteek dealer.  We get wholesale accounts wherever we can to keep parts costs down.

June

[Peppy]

Good one June! I think I did the exact same seat last year. Goofy with the supports going up inside the pad like that. I hear what your saying with the mesh stretcher/listing breathing and have done it that way, but I still way prefer to make my stretchers from something that has no stretch. Herculite is my preferred material. I make sure to put vents under both halves of the foam, and I was in the habit of making vertical slits in the stretcher. I just now remembered I haven't done that on the last few jobs. Ooops.

[Mike8560]

I was in the habit of making vertical slits in the stretcher.

I do the same thing and just use whatever scraps of canvas i have  :)